11 December 2025 – festival of the fat ox

Every December since about 1473 the fattest ox in Piemonte wins recognition at the fiera del bue grasso in Carrù.  This morning we rose at 5:00 to see for ourselves.  Medieval traditions endure in 2025: a horseman wearing a red cape rides up and down the main street, greeting early fairgoers.  Men in black capes promenade or stand about in groups, cups of vin brule (spiced, hot wine) in hand.  Other ancient customs have not survived: the oxen arrive not in procession through the town but in trucks, and the exhibition area is a brightly lit pavilion.  Still the excitement is palpable, especially in the crowds around the barn watching the animals being brushed and powdered for their appearance before the judges.  Each fat ox has been raised with care so its meat will be tender and silky, destined to be savored as the Piemontese specialty known as bollito.  By 8:00 the sun was rising; we were cold and hungry for a second breakfast so we shared a panino di porchetta. When we stop doing things like this, we’ll know we’re old.